The last post...

So back in Blighty after four weeks plus of touring. A very humbling experience. Time to reflect and to think about what it all meant. It was rewarding to be able to bring to life my great uncle's story in World Wat One. The suffering and sacrifice in that conflict is beyond adequate description. I still have the sense that this conflict above all others was such a waste of human talent and ability. I still have the sense that World War Two was a more understandable conflict and one with more of the 'righteousnous' to it. Anyone who has stood in a concentration camp museum or been to the Museum of Jewish History in Berlin would probably agree with that.

Without the First war would be have had the Second? My personal view is probably not. The wider conditions for discontent would not have been there. The impact of World War One on Hitler himself would have been missing. Hopefully he would have remained a struggling artist with an unfortunate tendency to rant in beer halls. We should not underestimate though the long, long history of anti-semitism in Europe that would still have been in the background.

A couple of closing thoughts - I saw nothing in my historical journey that convinced me to change my mind that it is often your own government you should really be afraid of and not a foreign one. And intolerance of immigrants and minorities really can lead to to some pretty awful consequences.

Back in the UK

Amazingly its sunny . Post tomorrow on final thoughts .

Berlin - Great City

The remrkable Bundestag building, a wonderful resurection of the old Reichstag building with it's famous dome reimagined in a brilliant new way. You can see some of the dome at the top. You can get up to it, walk around a spiral ramp inside the dome and get spectacular views out over Berlin but also down onto the Bundestag floor!

This is looking down inside the Dome to the seats of the government!

A more conventional view - the previous picture was taken inside this from the spiral ramp looking down the internal cone structure you can make out.

The famous Brandenberger Tor - from the Unter den Linden side.

Great city - more to come on the positive side of Berlin.

German cuisine

Curry wurst. It tastes better than it looks

A lone voice of protest

How much courage did this worker have to make his little protest ?

Totalitarianism - Gestapo, the Topography of Terror

The Germans are very open and remorseful about the Nazi history that has tainted their recent experiences as a people. After re-unification they chose to redevelop a once infamous area of the city into a devastating reminder of just what can happen when a people deliberately choose to follow a leader like Hitler and the Nazis. They did choose - they voted almost overwhelmingly for the Nazis and then supported the Parliaments self-destruction.

What emerged from that was state within a state that is represented at its worst by the activities of the Reich security services and one one element of that apparatus in particular - the Geheime Stats Polizei or Gestapo for short.

This is one of the original underground cells at Prinz Albrecht Strasse - the HQ of the Reich Security services. The whole area is now a museum (the Topography of Terror) that forensically details how the Nazis got into power, the organisations they used to maintain power and the results.

This is looking back along the length of the underground chambers - in the background is part of the Berlin Wall, another reminder of totalitarianism.

A shot of two unfortunate inmates clearly showing the terror that such an environment created. The Nazis and the Gestapo started initially by liquidating known political opponents - so members of the Communist party, trade unionists etc. They then moved onto to other 'undesirable' groups. The best know being the Jews of course. But there were hundreds of thousands of others. Gypsies, religious leaders, homosexuals, resistance fighters. Patients of asylums, handicapped individuals - the Nazis introduced the word 'euthanasia' to describe the systematic elimination of elements that would contaminate their twisted view of perfection.

It started with a populist political viewpoint that people supported. It ended with a World War and the Holocaust.

A view of the unsettling Memorial to the Holocaust. A vast field of massive granite 'stelle' or blocks. You walk in between them and the path goes up and down. You can disappear into the memorial. It is powerful and thought provoking.

As I said at the start, the Germans are remorseful.

Totalitarian regimes two - concentration camps

Sachsenhausen - the first purpose built Nazi concentration camp. These were the words that came to be so closely associated with the industrialised extermination of whole groups of people under the Nazis. Heinrich Himmler was very proud of this new approach to terror. The camp was built to detailed designs to ensure maximum control and efficiency of execution of their warped ideas about who was on the right side of the Nazi project and who was on the wrong side.

If you were unfortunate enough to walk through those gates this is the panorama that greeted you. In front is the roll call area - scene of daily counts of the inmates, appalling abuse of power and cruel and summary punishments.

There is a 'boot testing' walkway around it. Some inmates were forced to march over 30km a day loaded down with weights to test new boot designs. You were deliberately given boots that did not fit. Many died doing this.

One example of the partnership that emerged between German industry and the Nazi's to use forced labour to pursue their individual aims. Many of these companies are still around - VW, BASF, Siemens, Krupp to name just four.

If you were lucky you got to share a bunk with one or two others. Room was regularly created by death.

The prison within the prison - to quote one inmate "if you ask me was it really that bad I will tell you it was a 1000 times worse".

The punishment posts in the prison - you would be hung up from these by your arms tied behind you. Dislocates the shoulder in most cases.

No way out - the electrified fence. In front of this would be a killing zone - cross it and get shot. Many just walked into it to end the suffering.

The Execution trench - mostly for shootings. You would be marched out around a circuitous route. Loud music may be playing to drown out the shots to prevent you realising you are marching to death.

The mortuary - this is only one small part of it. The bodies would be piled up in here early on in Sachsenhausen's history - later they went straight to the crematorium.

The Crematorium at Sachsenhausen. Built once the 'Final solution' was agreed in 1942 at the Wannsee conference.

Contemporary photograph of the entrance to Sachsenhausen - the 'Arbeit Macht Frei' gate is under the watch tower in the centre.

Sachsenhausen was liberated in April 1945. They were still executing prisoners right up to the day if was freed. 300 died of illness after it was liberated.

The Soviets cynically took it over and reused it - this accounts for most of its survival as a site to visit and reflect on.

It is a chilling experience. It is the methodical, organised approach that disturbs me the most. This was the first of a huge and well organised killing machine. I don't know who said this but I think it was one of the leading Nazi's

'If you kill 6 children everyone is appalled. If you kill 60,000 they cannot comprehend it'

So if there are any things that are worth fighting for I would have to say preventing people who are capable of that sort of thinking getting into power and staying there is one of them.

Totalitarian regimes - the Wall

First of at least two posts on the unfortunate history Berlin is associated with. Both have to do with totalitarian regimes and the extreme results that come from them. This first one is about the Berlin Wall. I am old enough to remember the effect the end of the Berlin Wall had on many of us - I could not really believe I was seeing it coming down.

If you are my age you grew up with it. A visible symbol of how the world was divided into free countries and those that were not free.

This is a vast mural on the side of a wall along Bernauer Strasse - the image shows actual houses on the street from 1961 just before the barrier was started. These desperate people are taking a last chance to escape. A few years later the street would have looked like this along it's length. The houses were pulled down.

This is one the preserved sections - the wall facing us is the view from the West. In the middle the 'deadground' watched over by the sinister looking tower. At the back, the wall that would face you from the East.

This is not a wall to keep you out. It is a wall to keep you in.

How morally bankrupt must your government be to have to do this?

So desperate were the citizens of both sides to overcome this barrier they went to incredible lengths to escape or to create a means for escape. This is tunnel 57 - so named for the number of people who managed to get out in it's short lived life before it was betrayed and the East German police ambushed the last set of rescuers and escapees.

Makes you think - especially as this was only just over 20 years ago that the Wall came down.

Keep vigilant - there are always idiots trying to build barriers to keep people out - why?

Je ne regret rien...

Leaving France and Flanders fields behind me today - heading for Berlin and the culmination of the tour. So today is mostly a travel day. The tour through Normandy and then the WW1 fields on the Somme, Meuse-Argonne, Verdun and Ypres salient was a tremendously rewarding experience. It was made all the richer and more personal by the emerging story around my great uncle and his exploits on some of those fields in 1917 and 1918. As the title says, I regret nothing...but when time permits here is what I would like to go back and do more on!

Two other great uncles fought in the First World War - it would be interesting to see their stories and follow in their footsteps. Sound like more work for Chris Baker at Fourteen-eighteen!

Verdun - incredible place. So much more to see down there.

Maginot Line - a series of post WW1 fortifications that were meant to deter another invasion (by the Germans) and famously did not. I drove past one the the Forts that is open to the public at certain times (I was driving by when it wasn't). Looked fascinating.

Reims - champagne capital but also right on the frontline for most of the war. Some interesting French and American battles to explore down there.

So there you have it - the beginnings of another series of tours and blogs!

See you in Berlin.

Counter attack de les vaches...

The cows drive off the author after his brief conquest of bunker three...

Fortunately my great uncle was more successful.

Great Uncle James Evans, First MC, Irles 1917

As promised here is the second long posting on my great uncle's military cross awards. This is his first one. I am going to quote verbatim from Chris Baker's excellent report on his record. The first bit in italics is the London Gazette entry on his MC.

“For conspicuous gallantry and devotion to duty. He led his men forward

in a most gallant manner, and succeeded in capturing two enemy

machine guns. He set a splendid example to his men, and rendered

invaluable assistance throughout.”

The war diary gives us more detail about this operation. The context is that the German Army had begun a strategic withdrawal from the Somme, and eventually moved rearward many miles to the prepared and formidable defences of the Hindenburg Line. Once this movement was detected the

British Fifth Army pursued the withdrawal. On 10 March 1917 James’s company was in the area of Petit Miraumont; James commanded Number 2 Section of two gun teams under Sergeants Beswick and Miller, and was initially in Resurrection Trench. At 5.30am (the war diary records)

"Lt Evans gun[s] moved via orchards, quarry in 26.a and houses NE of village to strong point in

26.c.75.25. Several Germans killed during advance"
 

It appears that James also directed one of his other guns (his section totalled four) under Sergeant

Chenery to an alternative position when he found a post he was supposed to be occupying was not constructed; Sergeant Miller’s team also advanced and killed four German snipers. In general this had been a highly successful

Operation by the company and was virtually without cost to themselves. The war diary entry for 2 April 1917 confirms that James had been awarded the

Military Cross and Sergeant Beswick the Distinguished Conduct Medal for their parts in the operation.

Apologies for any formating issues in copying this across from the PDF!

Once again Chris had great maps to go with this text.

This is an original trench map! The red line is the British 'Resurection' trench. The Red triangle is the German strongpoint captured. The orchards and quarry from the war diary can be identified. Superimposed on a modern map...

Virtually identical! The orchards have gone and the old quarry has been filled in. The roads are exactly as indicated and as you will see, the strongpoint is still there!

This panorama is looking back at the British trench line with Irles behind me.

From the same spot, looking at Irles and it's church. The orchards would have been where those two little trees are.

Moving ahead to the quarry..

This must have been roughly where it was - you can see the back of the cemetery in this shot.

And these are the actual strongpoints - taken from my first scouting trip when I did not know about the details of James' actions.

Google Translations of 'Are you the owner of the field with the German Fortifications in it' and other non-standard phrases I tracked down Mdm Philippe, the farmer's wife (or mother - not sure) and asked if I could get in the field to take some close ups.

Merci beaucoup Mdm Phillipe!

 

Again, almost standing in the footsteps of those incredible soldiers and their superhuman efforts.

 



A couple of the bunkers can still be entered - here is a look out from one of the vision slots.

And with the flash to illuminate the darkness

And one final shot looking down the Ancre valley towards - which presumably is why these were put where they are. There are about three remaining structures on this side of the valley in a 'complex' that was close together. One other can be made out but is either buried or destroyed. There is at lease on on the opposite side of the valley which overlooks these and is higher up. Probably part of the same overall defensive position.

A remarkable opportunity to in some way recognise the extraordinairy efforts of the people who fought in the Great War.

Waterloo - Part Deux

Hi there- before we get down to the main posting of the day back on the Somme with my great uncle here is an aperitif by way of a quick trip back to Waterloo.

I took the opportunity to further abuse a rental car by driving around the battlefield and getting up close to a few of the landmarks I mentioned in the fist post.

So straight away here is La Haye Sainte up close and personal - and looking remarkably like the old Airfix kit I had growing up...

If you were paying attention during the first post you will of course realise this was a key part of Wellington's centre and only fell after a long and heroic resistance by the German forces holding it when they ran out of ammunition.

This unassuming farm track heads away from the British centre on top of the ridge towards the French lines. If you had been here in 1815 you would have had a first class seat for the action to your left at La Haye Sainte and to your right at Hougoumont. You would have been bombarded by French artillery for hours and then had to defend yourself against two hours of repeated cavalry charges. Once you had seen those off there was more to come - hordes of huge mustachioed Frenchman in bearskins marching up in dense columns shouting 'Vive l'Empreur' and 'death to the roast beefs' (probably in French though). Yes - this was the last throw of the dice, the Old Guard itself.

Waiting until you could see the whites of theirs eyes (and the smell of the garlic...) you would have given them three volleys of musket shots in a minute and not soon after that they would have turned tail and fled. You pause and then when Wellington waves his hat, off you go, general advance and the end of the battle!

Off in the distance is la Belle Alliance where old Boney himself is directing things.

Zoomed in and looked for him but he had gone.

And finally here is Hougoumont - the key to the Allied right flank.

This is all that is left - the old Farmhouse part of the complex. The 'chateau' burned down in the fighting. This struggle here was the longest on the battlefield - pretty much all day once things got going around 11:30 so over nine hours of fighting. Held by the Guards it did not fall but it was a close run thing. At one point a side gate was breached by the French and the whole position was under threat. The Guards counter-attacked and closed the gate, saving the day and according to Wellington the battle itself!

This may (and I say may) be a monument to the French regiment that got inside. You cannot get into Hougoumont as it is private property so this needed a zoom and a bit of sneaking about in the woods to get a look. It may not be in the right place to be on the spot of the rear doorway - it is in the old walled gardens bit of the complex.

So there you have it - a bit more on Waterloo and despite the rain (again) it was great to walk the battlefield and see things from the ground.

More to come on the Somme now including some belligerent cows....

Great Uncle James Evans - Second Military Cross, Somme 1918

This is the first of two long posts that will cover each of the Military Crosses awarded to my Great Uncle during his service on the Western Front. For logistical purposes (and the fact the weather is once again awful here on the Somme) I am doing the second award first if you follow...

Thanks again to Chris Baker for all of the detailed research on his record and for being able to provide such precise locations for the action - something that allowed me to stand on the same spot my relative did all those years ago. I'm telling you that really makes you think!

Here is the announcement in the London Gazette confirming his second MC.

“For conspicuous gallantry and initiative when called upon to assume

command of a company at Tara Hill near Albert on 23-24 August 1918.

He handled is 16 guns with great skill during the attack, and later he led

four of the guns through very heavy artillery and machine gun fire and

occupied ground from which he was able to prevent the enemy from

consolidating a new line”.

This took place during the last great Allied offensive of the war in 1918 - but was fought back on ground initially won in the Somme offensive of 1916 (at such high cost) and then lost again to the Kaiser's offensive of early 1918. Thus my great uncle was back in the same general location as his initial service in 1916 and 1917.

The attack mentioned in the Gazette was part of a broad effort to push the Germans back from around Albert. My uncle was in charge of a company of machine guns in the machine gun battalion - a group used by Divisional leaders to support other units in the attack. This allowed concentration of resources to support specific tactical objectives.

This picture comes from Michael Stedman's Battleground Europe 'Advance to Victory 1918' Somme, Pg96. The action my uncle was involved in was broadly speaking around E and F. Chris Baker did a great job superimposing my uncles unit positions onto a modern map.

The four red flags are where my uncle had his guns positioned at various stages in the battle. I've called bottom left position one, top left position two, the one by 'Montalot' position three and the one right by 104 as position four.

Now we can put ourselves (to a certain extent!) in my great uncle's shoes...

 

This is looking BACK towards positions one and two - so one is on the left of the photo and two is on the right. The road is the D108 to Becourt from Albert.

This is now looking towards the next positions of his guns - so towards Becourt and 'Sausage Valley'. We are standing on the summit of the 'Tara' Ridge.

 

This is machine gun position four! I am standing pretty much right on it. The valley below is 'Sausage Valley'. The high ground to the left is 'Tara' and in the distance in the middle as La Boiselle and the Lochnagar crater.

 

I believe the German front line would have been 'enfiladed' from this position - so the gunners could fire down and along the trench line. A powerful position to help prevent German defending actions and counter attacks.

 



Panorama from the same position showing Tara on the left and Sausage valley in the middle and Becourt Wood on the right. There is a cemetery in this one about 300 or 400 metres away.

This is the exact location of 'position four' if the overlay of WW1 details and modern map is correct!

To get a different perspective I then carried on towards La Boiselle and the Lochnagar crater (see earlier posts)

This is from the other side of 'Sausage' valley with Tara on the right. The edge of the trees is where I was at 'position four'. I zoomed in a bit - can't be more than 800-1000 metres as the crow flies.

I said earlier that this was like being in his shoes - but the conditions then were unimaginable. It is a gross simplification to describe it that way. The following picture is from Michael Stedman's book again - Advance to Victory 1918, Somme. Pg 99. It was taken just before the Allied attacks in 1918.

Contrast this with the 'battle map' and today's modern map and pictures. The ground my great uncle was fighting over was not the green and yellow Somme farmland complete with picturesque woods and valleys. It was blasted wasteland. Fought over for three years. Devastated. A burial ground.

The bottom left of this picture is the same one covered in my pictures in the post.

I have another powerful picture for the Web. Apologies for using without permission.

This is La Boiselle today and during the War. My uncles action supported taking this objective. There was no village - just rubble and trenches and bunkers.

So that covers one chapter from my great uncle's war time career. Tomorrow I will post on his first Military Cross earnt in 1917 at Irles.